What Can LUXAPOOL® be painted over?2018-03-01T16:59:54+11:00

 LUXAPOOL® EpoxyLUXAPOOL® Chlorinated RubberLUXAPOOL® Primer Sealer Required?YE
Sound old Epoxy Coatings??YESNONO
Concreate, uncoated?YESNOepoxy only

Can you paint epoxy over chlorinated rubber or vice versa?2018-03-01T17:00:37+11:00

No. If the pool was previously painted with Chlorinated Rubber then you must use Chlorinated Rubber. Likewise for Epoxy.

How do I test a previously painted pool to find out whether it can be repainted with epoxy?2018-03-01T17:01:09+11:00

Simply rub the existing surface with Acetone solvent, or Colormaker CRS on a clean rag. If the paint softens and becomes sticky, it cannot be painted over with epoxy, but probably can be coated with Chlorinated Rubber. If the solvent merely removes some surface oxides and does not soften the paint, you may use epoxy. Test the pool surface in a number of areas so as to ensure all layers are the same.

What colour will my pool look using Pacific Blue when the pool is filled?2018-03-01T17:01:24+11:00

This will depend on many factors including sunlight, cloud and the time of the day, however under bright sunlight it will look somewhat darker and brighter than unfilled.

How much LUXAPOOL® will I need to paint my pool per 2 coat finish?2018-03-01T17:04:34+11:00

Paint Required

Pool DimensionsNew PoolRepaint
Std. 10m x 5m (1 > 1.5m deep)4 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy Primer Sealer AND 8 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat8 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat OR 6 x 4L LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber
Small. 8m x 4m (1 > 1.5m deep)3 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy Primer Sealer AND 6 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat6 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat OR 4 x 4L LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber
Kidney. 8-10m (1.2m aver depth)3 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy Primer Sealer AND 6 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat6 kits of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy topcoat OR 4 x 4L LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber

What is the coverage per can for both Epoxy and Chlorinated Rubber?2018-03-01T17:05:18+11:00
  • For LUXAPOOL® Epoxy Primer Sealer calculate 25-30m2 per 4L kit for 1 coat.
  • For LUXAPOOL® Epoxy Coating calculate approximately 20-25m2 per 3.5L kit PER COAT
  • For LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber calculate 30-35m2 per 4L can PER COAT

Always allow for a little more rather than run short.

What do I use for cleanup of Epoxy and Chlorinated Rubber?2018-03-01T17:05:38+11:00

Use LUXAPOOL® LT Solvent for epoxy and LUXAPOOL® CRS for chlorinated rubber finishes.

What do I use for thinning of Epoxy and Chlorinated Rubber?2018-03-01T17:05:56+11:00

Thinning of topcoats is NOT recommended. LUXAPOOL® CRS may be used to thin the first coat only of LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber application.

Is chlorinated rubber pool paint “rubbery and flexible”?2018-03-01T17:06:18+11:00

No, it is hard and glossy.

My pool is leaking. Will the LUXAPOOL® paint bridge across gaps?2018-03-01T17:06:38+11:00

No, if the pool is leaking from visible cracks in the surface, these must firstly be repaired professionally. Refer to Colormaker or your local distributor.

How do I treat joins in my pool surface?2018-03-01T17:06:59+11:00

With great caution. Please seek the advice of a pool coating professional before proceeding.

Will my swimming pool lift out of the ground or crack if I drain it?2018-03-01T17:07:17+11:00

Most pools are usually built with a hydrostatic valve at the deep end of the pool. This allows water into the pool should the ground water pressure be great enough, although it is unusual for this to occur. If a small amount of water is coming through, remove the top of the valve and fit an approximately 1m long PVC pipe over the outlet. The water will raise up the pipe until the pressure is equalized, and will keep the surface of the pool dry during maintenance, preparation or application of coatings

Will using Epoxy Primer Sealer on a previously painted pool provide any benefit?2018-03-01T17:07:33+11:00

Not if the existing pool finish is prepared as detailed in the appropriate application sheet?

I have a fiberglass pool with a textured surface on the steps, how do I prepare this area?2018-03-01T17:07:51+11:00

Use coarse scouring pad or stiff wire brush, ensuring that all residues are swept or vacuumed.

What size roller should I use?2018-03-01T17:08:23+11:00

Use a low cost but NOT cheap roller ideally of minimum 270mm width and 60mm diameter. Medium nap (10>11mm lamb’s wool roller covers are ideal) Larger rollers in experienced hands will result in a faster and visually better result. Ensure that a suitable tray is available to suit the roller width.

What is the expected life of both Chlorinated Rubber and Epoxy?2019-02-20T13:45:00+11:00

Given proper preparation, application and strict control of pool water chemistry as recommended by Colormaker Industries, LUXAPOOL® Chlorinated Rubber should last up to 3 years and LUXAPOOL® Epoxy should last 8-10 years (less for darker colours in both systems). Be aware that automatic cleaners such as Kreepy Krawley and Barracuda, etc., will decrease the overall wearing life of pool paints, especially on the floor. In addition to this, painted areas not immersed in water or close to the surface will age more quickly than those more deeply immersed, as they are exposed to higher amounts of UV light. As such, it can be of great benefit to add an extra coat of paint in these areas to extend the wearing life

Can we mix part cans of LUXAPOOL® Epoxy?2018-03-01T17:08:48+11:00

This is not recommended due to the fine mixing tolerances of each pre-weighed component.

Is it better to put the tile line in first, or paint the pool first and then add the tile line?2018-03-01T17:09:06+11:00

Generally it is preferred to put the tile line in first, clean up any mortar residues, then, paint the pool with appropriate masking of tiles as necessary.

As epoxy is very slippery, what can I do about this, especially on the steps?2018-03-01T17:09:34+11:00

You may consider using our ‘Anti-Slip Additive’ within the last finish coat. Refer to Colormaker for details.

What is the least amount of time that I need to wait before filling my pool after the repaint?2018-03-01T17:09:49+11:00

The longer a pool is allowed to dry prior to filling, the better the ultimate quality and longevity. Allow at least 7 days, and ideally 10 days cure in summer, and minimum of 14 days in winter. Allow a further 3-5 days before adding chemicals other than salt or chlorine.

Won’t the pool go green if I need to wait 3-5 days prior to putting in chemicals?2018-03-01T17:10:15+11:00

Providing that the pool has been filled with fresh water this delay in treatment will have no impact on the immediate or long-term water quality.

What can I paint metal pieces around the pool with?2018-03-01T17:10:40+11:00

So long as these items are not subject to immersion, and free of rust, application of Colormaker ‘Anti-Corrosive Primer’ followed by the finish of choice. Full Gloss Acrylic will provide the best long-term weathering. Refer to the specific product data before proceeding.

What can I use on pavers/bricks/cement areas around the pool?2018-03-01T17:10:54+11:00

For a transparent finish that maintains the natural appearance of the surface, Colormaker Industries PETROL & OIL RESISTANT CONCRETE SEALER may be considered. Avoid high builds as this will lead to a slippery surface. Alternatively, an opaque, non-slip finish may be obtained through use of LUXAPOOL® POOLSIDE & PAVING, which is available in 15 decorative colours.

Troubleshooting Film Defects2018-11-16T15:35:21+11:00

Care must be taken to prevent water coming into contact with a curing Epoxy film from sources such as rain, dew, leakage from the hydrostatic valve or even high levels of humidity. If moisture has been allowed to come into contact with a LUXAPOOL Epoxy paint film within the first 3 hours of cure, then the chemical integrity of the film may be compromised, and as such the entire coat of paint should be removed and a new coat applied. After 3 hours of cure, the chemical integrity of the film will not be damaged, however surface defects such as surface bloom can still occur, which will present as a milky discolouration or haziness on the surface of the LUXAPOOL Epoxy. Surface bloom will act as a barrier between successive coats of epoxy leading to delamination, and must be removed if additional coats are intended to be applied. To remove surface bloom from intermediate coats, the epoxy should be allowed to set tack free, and then lightly sanded with very fine wet & dry type sand paper. All residue should be removed with a vacuum cleaner before continuing to the next coat. In the final coat this bloom can be removed with a plastic scouring pad and a mild abrasive. Alternatively, if left untreated, the bloom will generally disappear within a few weeks of the pool being filled with water.

Leaves, grit or insects that may be have been trapped in the film during application of initial coats may be removed by lightly sanding the affected area. Successive coats can then be applied as usual. If foreign matter has been trapped in the final coat during cure, it may be removed by GENTLY scraping and sanding the area after full cure of 5 days. Leaf stains on the surface will generally disappear within the first week or so of the pool being filled and chlorinated.

Stains may occasionally appear on the pool coating. These are normally yellow in colour and result from excess hardener leaching to the surface. This will most often occur within one month of filling the pool, and will gradually disappear as the pool surface chalks. Faster removal of the stains may be aided with general cleaning and maintenance (as described later in the guide) but should disappear by itself within 2-4 months depending on the season.

B ubbling or solvent boil occurs when volatile solvents in LUXAPOOL Epoxy, or air in the application surface expand with heat, and then become trapped in the curing paint. This may result if the paint is applied to a hot surface, if the product itself is too hot when applied, or if the applied paint experiences any heating (e.g. from sunlight) during the early stages of the curing process. To prevent bubbling, avoid painting under high temperature conditions (over 30°C), begin application earlier in the day (around 8-11am) while the surface is still cool, and ensure that all LUXAPOOL Epoxy products are stored out of direct sunlight and kept in a cool place throughout application. Also consider the following application tips:

Especially for porous cement render or marblesheen surfaces, apply LUXAPOOL Epoxy Primer-Sealer as the initial coat.
Ideally, work below a shade-cloth which will moderate direct sunlight onto the surface.
Commence application on the pool side that has been exposed longest to the sun (western edge), then work to the south edge, then to the east, to the north and finally onto the floor.
Avoid application of ‘thick coats’, and focus on filling any observed surface porosity using a stronger rolling action.
Allow the painted areas to stand for approximately 10-15 minutes and then observe whether any small bubbles have appeared. If so, they can be eliminated by lightly draping a wet roller (not loaded) over the surface. (Do not attempt this process after 30 minutes of curing).
If bubbling is experienced in a fully cured film, (especially important in initial coats) sand the affected area smooth with 150 grit sand paper, and then remove all residue before applying successive coats.

Blistering is the result of poor application techniques, and occurs because liquids in or under the applied film (such as water or solvent) are expanding, forming voids within the coating. The presence of blisters will ultimately result in cracking and peeling of the epoxy coating. To prevent blisters, avoid painting over a moist surface, painting under high temperature conditions (over 30°C), painting over a surface that has been curing for longer than 24 hours and painting over a surfaces that have been improperly prepared. In the event that blisters are identified in an epoxy coating, the entire coat of paint must be mechanically abraded back to a stable and sound surface. After all residue has been removed, any additional surface preparation should be performed before reapplication of finish coats.

Delamination is any loss of adhesion of the paint film from the surface or between coats, and may become apparent anywhere from days to several months after application. It may appear as small flakes to large sheets coming away from the surface of the pool. Delamination from an application surface results from poor surface preparation. To prevent this, always ensure that the surface is clean of dirt, oils, greases or other contaminants, and that the surface is thoroughly dry before application. For unpainted granular surfaces (such as cement render or marblesheen), an acid wash is recommended to promote adhesion, followed by application of LUXAPOOL Epoxy Primer-Sealer as the initial coat. Delamination occurring between coats occurs because the initial coat has completely cured and has become too hard before additional coats have been applied. This might be seen when applying a new coat to an old, previously painted surface, or when applying successive new coats. To prevent inter-coat adhesion issues, avoid painting under high temperature conditions (over 30°C), and always apply successive coats between 20 and 24 hours after a previous coat. For old, previously painted epoxy surfaces, or newly painted surfaces that have been allowed to cure beyond 24 hours, it is necessary to thoroughly abrade the entire pool surface to a dull finish and remove all sanding dust prior to application of the next coat to assure adhesion.

Chalking is a natural weathering process of an epoxy coating, not a result of a defect in the paint or application process. It will appear as a fine powdery deposit on the paint surface, and may retain some of the colour of the coating. Early chalking may become apparent after an epoxy is applied at low temperatures, and as such it is recommended that care be taken when applying during winter months. However, the prevalence of chalking is primarily dependent upon pool chemistry, including both the levels of chemicals used and the stability of these levels, as well as the intensity of UV light to which the epoxy coating is subjected. Chalking may also be accelerated by a deposition of soluble salts from the water onto the coating surface, or by allowing existing chalk to build up. By avoiding factors that cause chalk acceleration, the rate of chalking can be minimised, and this will increase the life expectancy of the epoxy coating. Maintenance of pool water chemistry, and regular removal of soluble salts and chalk build-up from the surface is recommended.


The technical information and/or application advice given in these publications represent the present state of our knowledge, and is believed to be reliable. Buyers and users of all Colormaker Industries products should conduct their own assessment to confirm the suitability of our product under their own conditions and intended requirements. Colormaker Industries offers no warranty of performance based on the above information either expressed or implied.